Friday, December 17, 2010

Aconcagua Facts


Aconcagua, the “Stone Sentinel” is the highest mountain in the Americas at 22,841 ft (6,962m), and is the highest peak in both the Western and Southern Hemispheres.  It is one of the Seven Summits.  Aconcagua is in the Andes mountain range with the summit located about 9 miles from the international border with Chile, about 50 miles northeast of the Chilean capital of Santiago, and about 70 miles west by north of the city of Mendoza


In 2009/2010, 3,712 climbers entered the Aconcagua Provincial Park during the primary climbing season (December – February) with the intent of climbing the mountain.  There are three primary climbing routes on the mountain – the Normal route, the Polish Glacier route and the Polish Glacier Traverse route.  The route we’re taking is the Normal route.  While “non-technical” (no ropes/technical climbing), all routes are nonetheless challenging due to the requirement for acclimatization - atmospheric pressure is 40% of sea-level at the summit, and cold and windy conditions. 


After arrival in Mendoza, purchasing jerky, landjaeger, and other food staples, our plan is to travel to the entrance of the Provincial Park at about 9,000 ft.  We have hired mules at the entrance to the park to carry most of our gear to base camp at about 14,300 ft (approximately the height of the Mt. Rainier summit!), and we will trek to base camp over about three days.  Following is a summary of the planned camps during our climb:

  • Puente del Inca, 8,990 ft (2,740m): A small village on the main road, with facilities including a lodge.
  • Confluencia,11,090 ft (3,380m): A camp site a few hours into the national park.
  • Plaza de Mulas, 14,340 ft (4,370m): Base camp, claimed to be the second largest in the world (after Everest). There are several meal tents, showers and internet access. There is a lodge approx. 1 km from the main campsite across the glacier.
  • Camp Canadá, 16,570 ft (5,050 m): A large ledge overlooking Plaza de Mulas.
  • Camp Alaska, 17,060 ft (5,200 m): Called 'change of slope' in Spanish, a small site as the slope from Plaza de Mulas to Nido de Cóndores lessens. Not commonly used.
  • Nido de Cóndores, 18,270 ft (5,570 m): A large plateau with beautiful views. There is usually a park ranger camped here.
  • Camp Berlín, 19,490 ft (5,940 m): The classic high camp, offering reasonable wind protection.
  • Camp Colera, 19,620 ft (5,980 m): A larger while slightly more exposed camp situated directly at the north ridge near Camp Berlín, with growing popularity.
Summit day is by far the longest day with the greatest elevation gain – about 3,400 ft (>1,000m).

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