Arrival in Moshi

Steve arrived at Kilimanjaro National Airport Wednesday night and chilled at the Meru Game Lodge, several kilometers west of the airport.  The lodge is situated in a wildlife sanctuary with dark, hand carved wood, high thread-count sheets, and beautifully kept grounds.  

Mount Meru Game Lodge

I arrived on Friday from Rwanda where I was visiting my daughter and family who live in Kigali.  As I traveled mid morning, I was able to view the landscape on the short 1 ½ hours flight, and was struck by the fairly clear demarcation between the the landscape of villages and the expansive Serengeti ecosystem, which is devoid of development other than several dirt tracks and what appeared like occasional lodge areas.  

Both Steve and I were met at the airport by Seif Juma, the CEO of our guiding company Kili Africa Tours.  We were presented with 1 ½ liter bottles of water, juice and all the bananas we could eat on the way to our respective hotels.  

Seif Juma and Steve

Seif, Teo and Geoff

As I was the first of our team to arrive at the Parkview Inn in Moshi, Seif set me up in one of the best rooms in the hours with a full-on view of Mount Kilimanjaro from my window!

Kili out my window!

Mountain Support - Porters and Guides

The average ratio of support staff on Kilimanjaro is 3 or 4 staff - guides, cook(s) and porters per client.  Usually, one guide will support a small number of clients - leading them, organizing porters, equipment, meals, etc.  Porters carry equipment and supplies to support everyone - clients, guides and themselves. This ranges from camping equipment, food and water, and the clients’ extra possessions. Some porters will travel ahead of the group and set up camp in advance. 

Tanzanian law mandates that all climbers must climb with guides and porters. Most of the Kilimanjaro porters and guides are local Tanzanian men between the ages of 18 and 40, and many work for years as porters on Kilimanjaro before being promoted to guide status. Wages for this work are relatively high in this poor country.  Many porters for Kilimanjaro are not employed on a permanent basis and freelance for different companies, but some operators use the same team of support staff for “quality control.”  Regulations state that porters can carry a maximum of 20 kg (33 lbs) for the company, plus their own gear.  They may work 6 days a week for three or four times a month during the climbing seasons.  

We’re told that our team of 6 clients will consist of 3 guides, 1 cook and 25 porters.

Mount Kilimanjaro Ecosystem

Kilimanjaro is perhaps the largest freestanding mountain in the world, rising more than the 5,000 m (16,400 ft) above the East African plain at 800 m (2,625 ft).  The mountain is only 530 km (330 miles) south of the equator, and less than that to the Indian Ocean.  The mountain is totally within Kilimanjaro National Park, measuring approximately 60 km west to east by 40 km north to south (37 mi by 25 mi) and encompassing 755 sq.km. (290 sq. mi.).  Because of its great height and its geographical location, Kilimanjaro contains five distinct ecological zones, each occupying approximately 1,000 m (3,300 ft) of altitude and each with unique flora and fauna:

• Lower slopes/Cultivation Area - 800 - 1,800 m (2,625 - 5,900 ft)
• Montane forest zone - 1,800 - 2,700 m (5,900 - 8,860 ft)
• Heath and moorland zone- 2,700 - 4,000 m (8,860 - 13,125)
• Alpine desert zone - 4,000 - 5,000 m (13,125 - 16,400 ft)
• Summit zone - 5,000 - 5,895 m (16,400 - 19,341 ft)

Lower Slopes/Cultivation Area:  This region of the mountain receives the greatest annual rainfall and features many rivers formed by glacier run-off from the top of Kilimanjaro. This zone is made up of farmland and small villages where many of the porters and guides working on the mountain come from.  The farmland in this region is largely used for coffee production, and some of Africa’s best coffee comes from the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro. Bananas, avocado, mango and other fruits are also grown on the lower mountain.

Montane Forest Zone:  The forest zone encircles a majority of Mount Kilimanjaro, but most of the rain on the mountain falls on the south and the east side so the forest is much denser here than to the north on the Kenyan side of the mountain. The flora and fauna are diverse but the animals are very elusive. Blue and Colobus monkeys are seen on certain routes.

Heath and Moorland Zone :  The montane forest quickly gives way to the heath and moorland zone. Temperatures here are erratic - daytime temperature can be above above 100° F (40^oC) but drop below freezing (32° F or 0° C) at night. These temperatures combined with less rain, gusting winds, giant heathers, wild grasses and a rocky trail replaces the forest very quickly. Tall grasses replace the heather progressing to the moorland zone. Large fields of wild flower cover sections of the mountain and clouds floating at eye level will frequently be seen.

Alpine Desert Zone:  This area of the mountain is truly a desert with annual rainfall less than 20 cm (8 in) and what plant life exists at this altitude must withstand both the oppressive sun and sub-zero temperatures.  There is also evidence of the mountain’s violent past with fields of volcanic rock of all shapes and sizes. 

Summit Zone:  Characterized by ice and rock, there is virtually no plant or animal life at this altitude. Glacial silt covers the slopes that were once concealed by the now-receding glaciers visible from Kilimanjaro’s crater rim. Nights are extremely cold and windy, and the day's intense equatorial sun is powerful.

Kilimanjaro Intro

Kilimanjaro.

At 5,895 m (19,341 ft) Mount Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain on the continent of Africa.  Kili is a stratovolcano composed of three volcanic cones - Kibo, the highest, Mawenzi at 5,149 m (16,893 ft), and Shira at 5,005 m (13,140 ft).  There are multiple climbing routes to the summit - Uhuru Peak, ranging from the Marungu Route (Coca Cola Route) - most frequently climbed, to the Umbwe Route - reputedly the most difficult and demanding route, but the most spectacular and least frequently climbed.  The Umbwe Route is the one we've selected.

Our time on the mountain is planned to be 7 days, from February 4 - 10, 2019.

The Team:

Katie with friend 

Ben and Julia (future Kili climber!)

Tom

Geoff

Nell

Steve

All good things must come to an end

As with all good things, our week at Potrero Chico passed much too quickly and we are winging from the sunny winter Nuevo León desert to the dark rainy Pacific Northwest. No complaint, just a statement of truth. Lots of things to look forward to though - skiing (snowboarding), ice climbing, snowy winter treks, etc.

After a great morning of climbing on Wednesday, we met Milton and Homero who were the hospitality crew to take us to some natural hot springs. We piled in Homero's white Suburban and as we were on our way out of Hidalgo, the first stop was at a tienda to pick up cerveza for the ride through the hot, dusty desert to the hot springs. Tecate in hand, Homero assured us that our safety was his first concern as it would be suspect if he, or any other Mexican would be observed driving without quaffing cerveza. Our fears assuaged, we settled back for a very interesting ride through the dry, but geologically interesting desert.

Tomcat preparing for the ride through the desert

 We drove on a combination of dirt and paved roads, passing through numerous surprising spots where the unground aquifer unexpectedly breached the surface resulting in life-sustaining green oases, supporting birdlife and flora while providing watering spots for domestic animals. We passed through a few small, tidy pueblas each supporting several drive-through "mini-supers," providing easy access to the purchase of cerveza and other essentials without the nuisance of exiting one's vehicle. During our ride to the hot springs we frequented one of these establishments, though we opted for a full stop to facilitate a complete liquid exchange.

Entrance to Termas de San Joaquin in the middle of the Coahuilan desert

We passed from the state of Nuevo León into the neighboring state of Coahuila, and about an hour and a half after leaving Hidalgo we arrived at the tidy parking lot of Termas de San Joaquin, a hotel/spa/hot springs complex, situated directly in the middle of freaking nowhere! Prior to departing on the afternoon's excursion, Milton had asked us if our preference was to visit the Termas de San Joaquin, where admission was a princely 135 pesos ($10), or another nearby hot springs where the admission was 25 pesos. Milton recommended the former and when we were presented with his objective review of the two establishments which included reports of suspect coliform counts and possible broken glass in the pool-bottoms of the latter, we unanimously accepted his counsel. However, we were not expecting what we experienced at the Termas de San Joaquin after we paid our admission fee and descended through a circular ramp lighted with diffuse natural light filtered through artistic stained glass, to the entrance of the subterranean thermal pools.

On the circular ramp to the subterranean baths

Stained glass portal to the world

When we opened the door at the end of the long, dimly-lit hallway leading to the pool, we were greeted with the warm, humid, sulfur-smelling atmosphere of the most amazing baths any of us had ever experienced! Tomcat and Marty, who are both carpenters and well-experienced in the construction trade, commented on the impressive multiple barrel arching of the roof construction in the baths with meticulous brick and tilework, supported by columns spaced at intervals in the pool. The baths were lit entirely by natural light, again filtering into the cavern through colored glass portals at the apex of the barrel arches and around the perimeter of the room where wooden benches, changing rooms and a shower were located.

Thermal baths at Terma de San Joaquin

Barrel arched ceiling of the baths

 The bath was fed at one end by an influent of thermal water at a temperature of about 40 deg. C, and exited at the other where the water temperature had cooled by perhaps 4 - 7 deg. C. We luxuriated in the meter-deep pools for about an hour, allowing the curative waters to work their magic on our tired muscles, desert-dry skin and limestone-rock-abraded hands. Milton joined us in the baths and at the end of our session entertained and educated us with interesting information about the baths, Mexican history and culture, and the environs surrounding the locale. He informed us that it was important to leave the residual sulfur and other healing minerals of the baths on our bodies for as long as possible to gain maximum benefit of our bath experience, and advised against subsequent bathing too soon. All but Marty, Steve and Ashley heeded his advice, and as today's travel day has progressed we have noted that the bathed-three, as well as other travelers, have afforded us wide berth as we've proceeded on our journey, and Julie, Tomcat, Gregg and I have noted seemingly ever-more-frequent wafts of odorific sulfur emanating from our persons as our natural sweating expels the healing salts!

Homero y Los Andinistas preparing to return to Hidalgo for a cabrito fiesta

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Location:Somewhere in the air between DFW and SeaTac

Al Mercado y en Jungle Wall

El Búho coffee shop in Hidalgo

After spending a bit at El Búho (the owl), the little coffee shop in Hidalgo, we returned to the casa where some of us chilled while others opted for a little more endorphin-generating action on the pitches.

Marty & Tomcat hanging out at the second belay of the 15 pitch Yankee Clipper on the Jungle Wall.

Marty's belay partner on the appropriately-named Jungle Wall -- No s**t!!

Marty Belaying Tom up the Jungle Wall.
Check out the red building for a clue why Helmets are advised!

Tomorrow is already our last day of a week that passed muy rapido! Our plan is to climb hard in the morning until we meet Milton and Homero for a trip to the hot springs 45 minutes distant before returning a casa for a Homero's especial dinner of cabrito (goat), a specialty of the area!



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Location:Potrero Chico,Hidalgo,Mexico

Tuesday is Market Day

Tuesdays and Saturdays are market day in Hidalgo, so we woke (somewhat) early and hoofed the half hour from Potrero Chico into town. We perused the stalls for half an hour or so and found the most enticing-looking street food and tucked in. We ran into a friend from home - Pat Lindenbach, last night at La Posada and again today at the market, and he recommended a great coffee shop with wifi. After our fill of local comida delicacies we repaired to the coffee shop which is where we a now for another few minutes, before more climbing this afternoon.

Buzz Wall from our Casa

Julie taking a break from the action on Buzz Wall

Above is a view of Buzz Wall where we climbed on Monday - the pitches are at the left base of the triangular-shaped feature, and was about a half hour trek from Homero's through all manner of cacti, sticker trees and other hazards. We spent the whole day climbing at Buzz Wall having a great time on the moderate pitches.

Gregg rapping Buzz Wall

View of the Potrero Chico valley in the afternoon

We returned a casa about 4 pm, whipped up a batch of guacamole in the dog bowl, and broke out the tequila while tending to residual cactus material on our persons.

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Location:Aquiles Serdán,Hidalgo,Mexico